Princess Second Fitting

This fitting was one I was more concerned about as I was worried the fabric wouldn't move or fit how I intended as well as the colours coming together. However, looking at it on Rachel the colour's really suit her and the pink and dusky grey/blue work really well together. Although in the original design the Princess is drawn bare foot with the pallets in the set a shoe will be better to protect her feet. A pink satin ballet shoe will be used as it will tie in with colour scheme yet is also slipper like which is in continuity with the fact that she has been in slumber until the Soldier arrives. These will wear down naturally if she wears them in rehearsals.

Full front view shows that the colours look beautiful and the lining of the skirt is thick enough to prevent seeing any underwear but also acts like the top fabric. The silhouette is like the design but the peplum looks like it needs some evening out.

Close up of the bodice beneath. This has been taken in slightly for a closer fit  so it stays in place whilst she is dancing. The belt fits perfectly on the waist and I like the size, shape and piped edge. The gathers at the shoulders will need to be hidden with clips with hopefully some diamante's for a lustrous, rich look.

Close up back view. The peplum needs evening out again here  but it drapes nicely. This will be helped when the silver trimming is added to give it some weight. As the gathers at the shoulder keep falling off a string of either diamante's or the silver trimming will be added across the back from shoulder to shoulder to stop this happening. The cowl back falls very elegantly.

Full view of back - on moving around Rachel found the dress very comfortable. The hem will be finished by overlocking once taken up to the correct height, the colour of the skirt fabric will have to match perfectly to make the hem invisible to the audience. 

The trimmings against the colour scheme. In the design loops of ribbon are falling from under the arm as the velvet isn't double sided this could look  wrong however, I love the richness and texture the velvet adds to the garment. Hopefully making these loops smaller will keep the velvet right side up yet still  enhance he movement. The silver trimming will be used along the neckline and peplum edge of the blue/grey chiffon.

The embroidery design Beth has done for the belt which is stunning. It is a design  from 1900 which sets the garment in its era even further. It adds to the femininity of the gown and also has a hint of regality about it. The colours of the stitches work with the existing colours and lift it slightly with the light blue. Rebecca suggested adding tiny beads along the trimming and the embroidery design to catch the light and add to a look of expense and its vintage quality. I think this will really make the costume.

The cape fabric pinned into place with a curved hem this will look really beautiful . The shot gold chiffon gives a sumptuous look and definitely adds to her role as Princess.  It will look gorgeous as it catches the light and billows as she dances.

Demonstrating the elegant ripples of the silk. The deeper colour  also brings another dimension to the costume as the colour scheme is very restricted, the gold breaks out from this and makes it look less flat.

 Reflection: I think the dress looks unbelievably beautiful and epitomises the Princess in its elegance, fragility and femininity. Rachel found it easy to move in and supportive which is excellent as she must be able to dance freely. As the Director said it was his favourite costume which I am very happy about as there could have been potential problems with it's movement and comfort. Once the finishing touches of trimmings and glitz are added it will have the regal feel it is lacking slightly at the moment. As with the Narrator for this garment it will be essential to get the finishings right. The shoulder clips, diamantes and beads will need to look of the era but also fit for a Princess. Rachel is going to borrow the skirt toile to practice the choreography in which steer the dancing to suit the costume from the outset and ensure they work seamlessly together. 


To Buy/Hire:

• 3 reels of quality cotton to overlock skirt hem (exact colour match)
• Diamante string for back
• Shoulder clips (2 identical )
• Tiny old sequins
• Satin Ballet pumps

Narrator Second Fitting

For the fitting for the Narrator we used the shirt form the initial fitting (from the costume store) which suits the era and fits very well. The shoes however were less successful, we found a pair which  were brogues but were too modern, more 1940s than 1900s due to the chunky sole. They did have a perfect looking pair in a size 10 which is 2 sizes too small, however, this does give us something to look for. The braces weren't quite right either - slightly too modern and the elastic was quite worn  so some of these will need to be sourced, yet they will not really be seen beneath the waistcoat. The hat is not entirely ideal either as it a little too worn and I feel the brim is slightly too large. However as the only brown bowler in the store it was worth a try and helps to visualise the complete outfit. It did in fact fit John very well.

The shoes that I would like to have for the Narrator  - perfect style, colour and level of wear.

Waistcoat backview - shows a good fit.

Waistcoat front showing a nice fit as well as correct design lines and matching of check.

Full front view with Jacket. It fits very well across the chest although modifications of the arm hole are needed due to  it  being tight across the chest when John moves around.

Close up of jacket lapels which are an authentic shape and size, they are in great proportion  and will look fantastic when finished.

The inside of the jacket demonstrating a pocket within and on the jacket  and the waistcoat. These will be able to house the Narrator's numerous props. They are finished beautifully and I am happy with the decision to welt the smaller pocket but not the larger ones as the detailing looks sophisticated and smart.

Back of the suit the fit is excellent as is the length. The cuff buttons will be positions on the back seam of the sleeve which is visible in this photograph.

Full back view also showing the excellent fit of the trouser. They are narrowing slightly towards the ankle as they did in this era and the trouser crease is nice and even. The hem needs to be lowered slightly but this cannot be done until the shoes that will be worn have been sourced so it is accurate as possible. 

Reflection:
This costume really embodies the Narrators character and it is obvious already John feels this way as soon as it's on. It relates to the period excellently especially in all the fine detailing. It is important that from here we ensure it stays that way when it comes to sourcing the shoes and such. Rebecca suggested 'Button Me' for the buttons that will have buttons in bone to fit the era and complete the authentic look of the suit. The Brogues also need to have a finer, leather sole which I was already aware of but still remains important. Cufflinks we can find in the store but are a detail that could easily let the costume down, I am imagining a simple brass looking cufflink at this time, but we will see what is available. I am extremely happy with the tie, also from the store but looks great with the tweed colouring. The deep red also gives off the warmth of his character. A problem did arise when it came to the matching of the check on the trouser and jacket. When dressing the Narrator for the show we will have to make sure that the braces are holding up the trousers evenly as otherwise it will make the check look skew to the jacket, very obvious with the size of the checks.

To Buy/Hire:

• Cufflinks
• Buttons (sizes and quantity have been provided)
• Braces
• Brown Bowler
• Brown leather Brogues with a leather sole

Soldier Second Fitting

For this set of fittings both the Director; Doug and our course leader were present which although at first felt slightly daunting was in fact greatly helpful and reassuring. It was amazing to see the costumes in top fabric as now the production is evolving off the page in terms of acting the costumes are now advancing this even further. Doug especially appreciated this in developing their action but also to have a stronger visual of the production now the set design is also complete.

The Soldier looks fantastic and despite my earlier doubts now the shirt fabric has been washed a few times and been given a dye to dirty the bright white it looks great in texture and colour. Further washing and pressing will add to the wear once the shirt is completed. There were some minor alterations to the shirt including; removing the gathered appearance to the sleeves which was on Emily's historical pattern, reducing the shirt body in size and reducing the collar size a second time. Rebecca suggested adding details such as top stitching the shirt collar to add to its authenticity but also increase its  standard of finish.

Front View

Side view

Back view

Putties in calico close up - these will be made from wool but calico is used to test the width and wrapping height for the Puttie. This width of 3inches works really well.

Fastened cuff close up

Close up of shirt from the back - some fabric needs to be taken out for a slightly better fit. Otherwise it fits well and is comfortable for the actor.

Reflection:
The costume looks beautiful and really evokes a period feel especially with the braces that Grace and I found in the store which match perfectly. The black belt was doubted at first by the course leaders, but after debate it was decided a brown belt would look too co-ordinated with the shoes and braces, the black adds something so this will be kept. A belt loop will need to be added as it is currently too large for the actor. The shoes that we did find in the store purely for the purpose of the fitting were not correct as they were too modern but Rebecca thinks a brown oxford boot would look the part as the shoes also don't reach high enough up the leg to meet the putties. Buttons are needed for the shirt which must be a mother of pearl shell to fit the period. The fit of the trouser was great and it looks truly authentic, the breaking down to be added to the shoes trousers and shirt will complete it, especially when combined with the WWI rucksack I have sourced. 

To Buy:

1. Oxford boots in brown leather with leather sole
2. Mother of Pearl buttons
3. Possibly thread for top stitch

Weekly Work Plan of 14/11/11

Meeting with Production Team

Meeting with Pete and John to discuss technicalities of set so they are in mind and on the go once In Extremis concludes. Here are the key points of our discussion:

• The staging will be made from 8x4 rostra as I marked out in the set box which with either have small legs or none at all (reducing the stage height by a few centimeters). This will be got in on the rehearsal of Friday 2nd of Dec. so the Orchestra can check they fit/ actors can practise with step up. 
• The blacks can be recycled if 3m high using gauze from previous show. These will be in the format showed in the scanned sketch below with reinforced corners and gaps to exit at the sides.
• Look at boxes in the studio - there are 8 overall that  we can use and they can be stripped down for planking.
• The curtains will be old dust sheets to get the right texture. And will need a pully to operate them. They may need to be on separate curtain poles due to pros angle. Look into size/price of sheets. 
• Chandeliar - possibly made out of wicker and paper mache/tissue paper - needs to be light and fire proof. If it is transparent then light will look like it is eminating from it. 
• There will be black lino under rostra to protect dance floor and black matting under pallets to prevent them moving. 
• Will felting be needed for entire orchestra rostra or just the percussion area?

From here I shall:

• Email Pete and John the set dimensions I drew up for Amber
• Investigate into dust sheet sizes for the Pros curtain (large 3.6x3.6m = £15.98, medium (3pk) 2.7x3.6m=£24.98)  
• Look into black lino for floor beneath rostra
• Look on freecycle for iron/pallets 
• Speak to Richard (Set builder) about wood needed/confirm dates of 3/4th of December for the build.

Meet with Richard

After the meetitng with Pete and John I went into the studio theatre to meet Richard (Set builder) and Debs (Set Painter) who looked at my set box. Richard is confirmed for the set build but we will need to get further painters in as well as Amber and I. The floorboards can be made from the In Extremis flooring and the pallets from the In Extremis structure which save a substancial cost and also recycle the wood used. Richard will precut the angles of the wood prior to the build to speed up the process. Debs offered advice on how to create the work I did in foamboard using polystyrene and meths and muslin to create the right texture for painting but also make it light. I will go over the set with Amber to create  the technical drawing but also the materials that we will be required to order.

Devil Textures

A

Sample of layering with different colours and textures. There need to be some deeper blacks and it needs to be layered up thicker but otherwise it's looking good. I am not keen on the check fabric that hasn't dyed well.

A selection of the textural sample that Emily has created for the Devil's final costume.

Texture added with puff paint, I love the red and green which will go with the autumnal leaves in the set decoration. The corduroy and  puff paint combined create a lovely texture of the sinews of a leaf.

Emily's shape samples taking inspiration from different elements of nature. This is great as the Devil needs to completely look as if she is covered in texture from natural sources as if risen from the earth.

Puff paint used to create mould/lichen texture, they look great but will look better in smaller patches as the ones of the left look a little too large. I love the colouration.

Dye samples of black in the variety of textures we bought.

Same again for red, Emily hass done many of these to get an exquisite colour range.  I love the scrim and hessian textures best as they will fray nicely and give bulk to the textured parts. The scrim in the green also looks very much like mould which will connect beautifully to the body suit beneath.

Further layering experimentation, this sample looks better as it is thicker yet when the edges are frayed as it looks a little flat at the moment.