Orchestra Costumes

Grace conducted all the fittings and arranged the costume hire from Torbay. Aside from spending much longer at Torbay than expected the fittings went smoothly with those on hand and only a few changes were needed such as taking in trousers at the CB etc. The costumes were in good enough condition to look good from where the audience viewed them and all fitted well. I am glad that we didn't try and make the women look masculine as it wasn't necessary, with their trousers and hair up anyway their was a sense of androgeny anyway. The violinist played with her jacket removed which created some variety in their appearance and also showing off the authenticity of the whole costume. They were worth the budget and on watching really made the Orchestra part of the production, they looked fantastic and so authentic. Plus, something I had not anticipated was that when they weren't playing they watched the action on stage which looked really nice and really added to the story telling feel of the piece as they also appeared to be transfixed by the Narrator's tale. 

Chris of Kokoro in uniform minus Jacket and hat.

Two of the musicians getting their putties done?

Orchestra all dressed the part and make up as well!

Reflection: I am so glad I included their uniform as part of my design not only did it unite the acting and musical aspects of the performance but it was great to get to know the orchestra and treat them to something different too which they all enjoyed. Once on stage they looked fantastic their costumes and instruments really adding to whole performance aesthetic.

Costume Parade.

Soldier

Overall the Soldier went very well, and minimal changes are required. Obviously from the photos we still have no shoes at this moment in time as the ones we ordered from ebay looked far too modern when they were opened. We are therefor going to hire some shoes for Josh along with the Torbay hire items to be collected on Tuesday. We will therefore need to see how the putties fit with the boots when the time comes. It is essential these are dressed accurately when the time comes as they otherwise will show up the historical accuracy of the garment to be incorrect. Further dressing notes are that his hat must be worn correctly with the badge central and that his braces are level. The trousers need kneeing more to shoe authentic breaking down and the shirt will be washed every night to increase its look of wear. This means we may have to do some additional breaking down after it's washing that Emily originally did. The button needs to be sewn on for the hat and a Sam Brown belt is needed for the outer jacket we now have which will also be found at Torbay. I am so happy with this costume and how perfectly it represents my design down to the finest details such as the fit of the trouser and the buttoned front and collar. It is authentic yet unique to the character of our Soldier all at once. 

Front view

Back view

Jacket and Trouser are a very good colour match. 

 Princess

This also went very well and watching Rachel practice her dance moves made me realise how beautiful this dress truly is as it flows when she moves perfectly. There are minor changes such as adding fastening between the bodice and skirt and making the diamante chain more brown/black than yellow which it looks at the moment. There was debate about whether to remove the trimming from the peplum but in the end it was left as it was. Diamante chain as cuffs for cape looks lovely and colour of cape ties her and the Soldier together in colour as well as completing her costume with another colour so it is not so 2D. Her ballet shoes will have some embroidery added to match them to her gown and tie the whole costume together, I feel I have achieved a look of regality and elegance with this costume withough giving her a crown which I am very pleased about. 

Practicing in final garment to check dance moves are still possible which they all are.

Front view

Cowl back and cape

 Narrator

A further successful costume with minor changes, the white hanky will be changed to a brown Paisley/spotty silk scarf which Aimee will head out to buy as well as adding a watch chain to the waistcoat pocket. The suit needs to be pressed again and checked over as there looks like a tiny pull in the sleeve which hopefully will be resolved by this. The shoes need a professional polish and relacing so the laces run straight. A hat box will be provided to keep the hat in good condition. This costume encompasses the Narrator's important role and gentleman quality and this will be completed with the addition of watch chain/scarf to show his care for his appearance. I know the buttons have been changed from my specification but seeing them on the suit now I can see that they look sophisticated and blend in nicely with the fabric where as mine would have stood out too much.

 Devil 

Old Man

This costume looks good and only needs the turn up reducing my half and lowering the hem onto the foot by half. Dressing notes: top 3 buttons done up correctly, end of belt folded over. The coat however was a problem as during a misunderstanding when having helpers to breakdown the coat was dramatically broken down and destroying an item from our store as well as being totally out of keeping with the character.

 Cattle Merchant

The buttons will be changed with the ones orginially bought for the Narrator to give a more period look and the sleeves need to be let down a little more. Cravat needs an iron then screwing up as it is too messy at the moment. Wrong buttonhole to be removed from lapels (to be done by Dexter). Dressing notes: Cravat tie tucked into collar.

Washer woman

Boobs have been added and now outweigh her bottom half considerably which looks ridiculous. A petticoat will be found from the store to fill out her bottom half so it is in keeping with her bust. I do like the womanly affect it creates, weights and elastic straps will also be added to the bra so they look more saggy. The pinny will be looked at again with petticaots under skirt but at the moment it is creating the wrong shape, making her look more narrow so this may need replacing. Dressing note: Collar and buttons need to be over the shawl. Shawl tucked into apron. After the parade Dexter also  suggested putting the hanky in her sleeve rather than the pocket to alter it's location more which, on looking back at these photos, agree with.

Creating a better shape.

Violinist

This was the costume that drastically needs change due to a mistake made when taking in the trousers which were also very expensive. The trousers are completely the wrong shape for dress trousers and are now far too small so that she can't even tuck in the shirt as well as being entirely overlocked. Dexter is going to see if he can try and resolve them and Aimee is going to look for some mens 28inch dress trousers. The shirt and waistcoat need starching and small white buttons will be used on a flase button hole will be used as the fastening. Poppers are also needed at the collar for the quick change to be hidden by the bow tie. As the leotard will no longer be worn beneath gloves are not needed. The trousers are spoiling this outfit at the moment however all other aspects of the costume are nearly correct. 

Back view

Trousers are drainpipe not straight leg

Completely wrong silhouette for the era.

Devil Final Costume

First time the headdress and costume have been seen together and they look fantastic. Some adjustments needed for headdress so it fits comfortably/securely for dance but it tones in beautifully with the body suit. Again minor changes, more black feathers need integrating from hip pads up the bodysuit and a popper for the Devil's yolk at the back of the bodice. This looks so much like my design and looks as if she has crawled from the Earth as I planned. The headdress definitely adds to her stage presence which is fantastic, I am extremely satisfied with how it looks and moves. The hair needs to come off the shoulders a bit to expose the twig detailing but the headdress should help this.  

Reflection:


Despite some obvious mistakes and problems, overall the Parade was rather successful. There were issues with breaking down and supervision that also arose at this point. In the case of the trousers, but also the breaking down of the Old Man's Jacket where slashes were put into an item from the store. I am really ashamed this has happened under our hands and will know better next time that breaking down needs supervising and clear communication. Grace and I have sewn up the slashes made which has improved its appearance and the fullers earth will be brushed down so it isn't so obvious. I have learnt a valuable lesson from this about the importance of communication and how easy misunderstanding can occur. On a future occasion we would supervise any alterations etc to ensure they were completed as required and not to waste money and time. I am glad we have Dexter on hand from this point until the first performance to ensure that from now on this will not happen and we are professional and efficient in our remaining time, as well as helping us organise our Orchestra fittings.

Princess Final Fitting

This fitting was added in to finalise the skirt length and the finishing details of the Princess's gown, as well as arrange the cape fabric which is yet to be added. The dress fits beautifully and the final hem length was marked on the lining.

Adjusting the cape attachment at shoulder clips

The cape draping at the back to still show off the back cowl.

Shoulder clips, cape and diamante chain in position.

Fittings for Devil's characters (Sourced costumes)

For the Devil's disguise as characters I have tried to maintain some continuity and subtle suggestion that it is he throughout the changes by including red in each costume whether in a trouser check, scarf or hankie. This evolved in the fitting to using the same silk scarf in each costume which works really well especially as the scarf is green and red - the colours of the Devil's final costume. This will translate well to the audience and also connect with the red contacts she will be wearing throughout. We also made the decision for Rhiannon to go shoeless throughout and let make up dirty up her feet from the start. This decision was made to allow her maximum movement, which she said she would find much more difficult in shoes, and will also give the added bonus of the make-up on her feet already being partially done prior to the last change giving us more time. A pair of black character shoes will be bought as back up in case the Pallet texture is too rough for her feet.
A decision has also been made to cut the masks as they reduced her eye contact/ visibility which is key to her character and didn't fit particularly well.
We also tried on the leotard under the violinist costume as it may be convenient to put this on at this time as there is longer for this change. Doug would like the beneath costume not to be seen so gloves will be worn and the powernet over the feet rolled up beneath the trouser.

The Old Man

Costume elements:

• Black coat
• Check Trousers
• Brown leather belt
• Check scarf
• White shirt
• Flat cap with peak
• Red silk scarf

To do:

• Break down jacket, check scarf and trouser - (jacket- dusty, musty, old, patchy) (scarf - grubby) (Trouser grubby and great wear)
• Take in the trousers to create the shape of the period
• Grubby sleeves slightly

Cattle Merchant

Costume elements:

• Trousers (same as old man)
• Shirt (same as old man)
• Brown Jacket
• Brown leather belt
• Grey flat cap
• Red silk scarf

To do:

• Buy a hankie for the top pocket 
• Break down hankie
• Pin up jacket sleeves
• Popper for top button of shirt

Washer Woman

Costume elements:

• White cotton cap
• Pinny
• Brown check dress
• Red shawl
• Red silk scarf worn in pinny

To do:

• Pad a large bra with wadding to give her a large bust - alter body shape to very womanly

Detail of shawl

 Virtuoso Violinist

Costume elements:

• White smart shirt
• White waistcoat
• Black tails jacket
• Collar
• Red silk bow tie (matches scarf)
• Silk Hanky in pocket
• Black trousers to match tails

To do:

• Source and buy straight leg trousers that fit and add petersham edging if needed
• Add collar
• Pre-set bow tie
• Get cufflinks (red)
• Waistcoat/collar studs
• White gloves

Reflection:
I felt Grace and I were very prepared for this task as we had a couple of choices in various colours and sizes for each character that we could try out and experiment with. It proves that it is all about the styling and accessorising that makes a costume great, for instance Rhiannon wearing the trousers at the waist instantly made it look to the right period. A great deal of breaking down will be needed to truly create these characters but I am happy that the Director is happy with each character's look and Rhiannon is able to move freely in each. We also took into consideration the time for each change whilst doing the fitting so we can do things such as pre set the Violinst bow tie to make the change faster and less fiddly. The overall result looked great and I feel more prepared for the costume parade on Monday. 

Devil Second Fitting

This fitting highlighted how important it was to have the two previous fittings to ensure the fit near perfect as very little was adjusted during this fitting it was more about the aesthetic. With the dye work at its current stage the overall colour scheme is clear yet it is obvious all the textural work is yet to come...

Side view with cape and yolk. Shows the silhouette of the costume although in the case of the yolk particularly  the silhouette of this will alter considerably once texture is added. It is a good fit but more work is needed to make the lycra patches less obvious. The cape is a lovely size, shape and drape and the red is bold and eye catching for the Devil's final scene. 

Back close up of the cape, although there was debate as to whether this gives the right look I do feel that the lustre  of the fabric will look good on stage giving the Devil a magnificent, royal entrance and appearance when it catches the lights and moves gracefully. 

Cape from back - the shape is really nice but there was discrepancy as to whether the red and black fabric should be joined at the hem as I originally said it shouldn't. However, I can see that it can look unintentional so joining them will give it a professional finish.

Cape arms down, bird like silhouette that relates nicely to the nature theme. The bodice silhouette matches design expertly.

Rippled edge of cape looks really nice with the powerful black/red contrast

Elastic along the arms will be white and hidden as roots, but the elastic does keep it tight to the arm  so Rhiannon can manipulate it easily when moving and it looks part of the costume/creature as I wanted it rather than separate.

Overall dying is looking great to give a mouldy/mossy appearance.  Once the power net is worked into  it will give a really seamless/ creature like look. Body and bodysuit fit really well which will enhance her body movement.

Back view with yolk - the cape will be worn beneath the yolk to  prevent the cape becoming bulky and ugly as well as making the cape look like its part of her. The triangular shape works well and will look better with a softened textural edge - more like a lions mane to add to it being creature like.

Bodice taken in at the centre back to perfect fit. Fits very well around the bum.

Shoulder pad added to dramatise the silhouette further along with the hip pads.

Hand detail - thumb holes have now been cut so the  texture can cover the hands  and blend with make up so it covers as much of the body as possible. Close up  of dye work which is beautifully mottled and adheres to the design.

Back view without yolk - some darker tonal work needs to be added to blend the legs to the bodice. Hip pads create a nice shape for the texture to sit on.

Side view of silhouette

Reflection:

The Devil is coming along nicely and with Emily's textural samples I can really visualise it in the flesh as I know she has great ambition with this. It is a good fit and Rhiannon can move freely in it for her scenes of heavy, abstract movements, the cape only being worn for the final scene which has little action. The cape has the bold presence I wanted and works with the costume beneath. Shoes are an aspect to consider whether we buy fabric ballet pumps so they can be worked into to be part of the costume or whether she remains bare foot as I know this is her preference. The headdress is something I need to keep a close eye on as make-up are making it and it needs to be continuous with the costume. We will provide the materials from the costume to be used and help ensure this, but I will keep in close contact with the makeup maker to  make sure it doesn't stray from the design too far. It was also discussed that the cape fabric could be used to create a butterfly for the old man in scene 1 to relate to the Devil's final costume and true self, I shall experiment with this idea.

To Buy/Hire:

• Fabric ballet shoes  

Princess Second Fitting

This fitting was one I was more concerned about as I was worried the fabric wouldn't move or fit how I intended as well as the colours coming together. However, looking at it on Rachel the colour's really suit her and the pink and dusky grey/blue work really well together. Although in the original design the Princess is drawn bare foot with the pallets in the set a shoe will be better to protect her feet. A pink satin ballet shoe will be used as it will tie in with colour scheme yet is also slipper like which is in continuity with the fact that she has been in slumber until the Soldier arrives. These will wear down naturally if she wears them in rehearsals.

Full front view shows that the colours look beautiful and the lining of the skirt is thick enough to prevent seeing any underwear but also acts like the top fabric. The silhouette is like the design but the peplum looks like it needs some evening out.

Close up of the bodice beneath. This has been taken in slightly for a closer fit  so it stays in place whilst she is dancing. The belt fits perfectly on the waist and I like the size, shape and piped edge. The gathers at the shoulders will need to be hidden with clips with hopefully some diamante's for a lustrous, rich look.

Close up back view. The peplum needs evening out again here  but it drapes nicely. This will be helped when the silver trimming is added to give it some weight. As the gathers at the shoulder keep falling off a string of either diamante's or the silver trimming will be added across the back from shoulder to shoulder to stop this happening. The cowl back falls very elegantly.

Full view of back - on moving around Rachel found the dress very comfortable. The hem will be finished by overlocking once taken up to the correct height, the colour of the skirt fabric will have to match perfectly to make the hem invisible to the audience. 

The trimmings against the colour scheme. In the design loops of ribbon are falling from under the arm as the velvet isn't double sided this could look  wrong however, I love the richness and texture the velvet adds to the garment. Hopefully making these loops smaller will keep the velvet right side up yet still  enhance he movement. The silver trimming will be used along the neckline and peplum edge of the blue/grey chiffon.

The embroidery design Beth has done for the belt which is stunning. It is a design  from 1900 which sets the garment in its era even further. It adds to the femininity of the gown and also has a hint of regality about it. The colours of the stitches work with the existing colours and lift it slightly with the light blue. Rebecca suggested adding tiny beads along the trimming and the embroidery design to catch the light and add to a look of expense and its vintage quality. I think this will really make the costume.

The cape fabric pinned into place with a curved hem this will look really beautiful . The shot gold chiffon gives a sumptuous look and definitely adds to her role as Princess.  It will look gorgeous as it catches the light and billows as she dances.

Demonstrating the elegant ripples of the silk. The deeper colour  also brings another dimension to the costume as the colour scheme is very restricted, the gold breaks out from this and makes it look less flat.

 Reflection: I think the dress looks unbelievably beautiful and epitomises the Princess in its elegance, fragility and femininity. Rachel found it easy to move in and supportive which is excellent as she must be able to dance freely. As the Director said it was his favourite costume which I am very happy about as there could have been potential problems with it's movement and comfort. Once the finishing touches of trimmings and glitz are added it will have the regal feel it is lacking slightly at the moment. As with the Narrator for this garment it will be essential to get the finishings right. The shoulder clips, diamantes and beads will need to look of the era but also fit for a Princess. Rachel is going to borrow the skirt toile to practice the choreography in which steer the dancing to suit the costume from the outset and ensure they work seamlessly together. 


To Buy/Hire:

• 3 reels of quality cotton to overlock skirt hem (exact colour match)
• Diamante string for back
• Shoulder clips (2 identical )
• Tiny old sequins
• Satin Ballet pumps